Wednesday 1 May 2013

Types of Eyeshadow

There are a few different types of eyeshadow available. When it comes down to choosing which one(s) you use, it mostly comes down to personal preference.  There are few things to take into account, as well as the format of the product:


All types of eyeshadows range in finish, from matte to glitter, and every stage in between. Similarly, the opacity varies. Some are sheer washes of colour, whilst others are completely opaque. So how do you tell a good eyeshadow from a bad one? For me, it mainly comes down to three things; texture, opacity, and longevity.

I like shadows that are soft and easy to blend, but that aren't powdery. You can usually tell how powdery an eyeshadow is by how much dust is kicked up when you put product on your brush. If the texture isn't right, the eyeshadow can be difficult to blend. This means it either won't budge from where you put it, meaning it can look patchy and uneven, or it'll disappear as you start to blend it. Mattes tend to have the most problems when it comes to texture, but in recent year a few brands have figured out how to do them well. The other thing I look out for in texture is fall out. This is when you end up with eyeshadow specks down your cheeks after applying it. Glittery shadows are the worst for this, and I usually expect some fall out with them. I'll pass on a shadow if I end up with more glitter on my face than my eyelids though! If you're a fan of glitter shadows, try using a primer which has been designed for use with glitter eyeshadows.

Personally, I prefer eyeshadows that are opaque. There are times when a sheer shadow is good, and some people do prefer them this way as they are more subtle, but I like my eye shadows to pack a good colour punch. If an eye shadow is sheer, I like it to be buildable, giving me the option to have more opaque colour should I desire.

The final thing I look for is longevity. Whilst a primer will help with this a lot, the better quality the eyeshadow, the longer it's going to stick around. Nobody wants an eyeshadow that has faded within a couple of hours of applying it.

Eyeshadow Primers

 Before you start applying your eyeshadow, make sure you get yourself an eyeshadow primer. These will help make sure that you get true to pan colour, crease free wear, and longer wear time. Once you start using a primer you won't go back. If you're a fan of glittery shadows or loose pigments, it's worth picking up a shadow which specifically works with them.

Recommendations

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Urban Decay Primer Potion –Since their original eyeshadow primer became a cult favourite, they've since released four new ones; three with different finishes and shades, and one with anti-aging benefits. The original is still my favourite.

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Too Faced Shadow Insuranceand Too Faced Glitter Glue –Too Faced's offering works even better on my super oily lids than Urban Decays' does (and that's saying something!). Their glitter glue is a stickier base which helps grab on to the glitter so that it doesn't end up all down your face.


Powder Eyeshadows

 These are the most commonly used type of eyeshadows. These are powders that have been pressed into pans.  They're probably the easiest to use when it comes to using multiple colours for a look.

A lot of eyeshadows still come with sponge applicators. I say just throw them away. They don't withstand washing as well as brushes (and you do need to wash them), and they generally just don't apply the product so well. Stick to brushes. Check out the brushes section for my essential eye brush picks.

Recommendations

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Sleek Eyeshadow Palettes –Proving that you don't always have to spend big bucks to have high quality. Sleek eye shadow palettes are some of the best among the drug store brands. They offer a large selection of colours and finishes, and are great whether you're just beginning your eye shadow collection, or whether you're already an eye shadow-holic.

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Urban Decay Eyeshadows –Since Urban Decay reformulated their shadows they've become on of the top brands for me in terms of their eyeshadows. They're soft, pigmented, and easy to blend. They now also sell empty palettes that you can place individual shadows into to create your own palette. And lets not forget their pre-made palettes. The Naked palette, and Naked 2 palette are two of the most popular palettes on the market at the moment, and with good reason. 

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Sugarpill Eyeshadows – If you want bright, in your face colour, Sugarpill shadows are the way to go. These are super pigmented, soft, easy to blend, and sure to get noticed.


Mineralize Eyeshadows

 Mineralize eyeshadows are the marmite of the make up world. You either love them or you hate them. Unfortunately I fall into the latter category. Mineralize eyeshadows are baked rather than pressed, and they have a completely different texture to normal shadow. They tend to be sheerer, and more glittery. Applied dry, they aren't all that great. Mineralize shadows come to life when they're applied damp, using a foiling technique. I like to use MAC Fix+ to do this (check out the tutorial section for a video on how to foil). Mineralize shadows are usually larger than normal eyeshadows, and always look so pretty in the pan. It can be hit and miss whether they look as pretty on the skin though.

Recommendations

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MAC Mineralize Eyeshadows –MAC have a small selection of mineralize shadows in their permanent collection, but keep an eye out for their limited edition ones, as they pop up in a lot of their collections. In those, they also like to offer duos, which gives you two co-ordinating shades in one shadow which is split down the middle.

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Accessorize Merged Eyeshadows – At quarter of the price of the MAC shadows, these are well worth a look if you want to try out mineralize shadows. They can be a bit chunkier than the MAC version, but that kind of goes with the territory of mineralize shadows anyway.


Loose Pigments

 Loose pigments are essentially eyeshadows in their un-pressed form. There is still a wide range of finishes, but duo-chrome shades (shadows that look different colours in different lights) are where I think than pigments really get interesting. They can be used in many different ways; applied dry, foiled, mixed with a mixing medium to create an eyeliner, mixed with clear lipgloss and applied to the lips... The list goes on. They're a multi-purpose product that can be applied anywhere on the body. It's always a good idea to check whether the pigment is eye safe or lip safe before you use it though. There are a lot of indie brands out there who do some great pigments, so it's worth looking at smaller brands for some really unique shades.

Recommended

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MAC Pigments – A good selection of shades and finishes, MAC pigments are a good place to start. Most are smooth to apply (the glittery ones can be chunky. Always check whether these are eye safe), and there are some lovely duo-chromes.

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Fyrinnae Pigments – The shipping can be a little long for these for those of us in the UK, but they offer the best selection of loose shadows I've ever seen. The choice can be overwhelming, so make sure you set aside a good hour or so if you're doing some serious shopping! It's also worth investing in their base product, Pixie Epoxy, which will help the shadows stick.


Cream Eyeshadows

 Cream shadows are another versatile one. They're great as a quick wash of colour over the lid for eye makeup in a hurry, and they can also be used as eye liners. They can be blended with each other, but this can be tricky depending on how quickly they dry. Cream shadows also make great bases for powder shadows and pigments. Use a similar colour to really make the powder colour intense, or try a completely different colour to create something new. They can also be used as cream blushes, or even lip sticks (although most do tend to dry out the lips). The great thing about cream pigments, is that in a fix you can easily apply them with your fingers. The heat from your hands can actually make them easier to blend. If using brushes, I find synthetic brushes work the best.

Recommendations

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Illamasqua Cream Pigment –Illamasqua have recently cut down their shade range, but I'm hoping that just means they have new shades they're planning to release. These are smooth, pigmented, and last for hours. The shades they have left are great as eyeshadows, but Hollow, a toffee colour makes a great contour colour for pale girls, Emerge, a peach colour, is perfect for under eye dark circles, and Bedaub, a mint shade, works well for covering red areas.

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Maybelline Colour Tattoos –Maybelline have really pulled their fingers out in the last couple of years, and these are one of their best products. They come in a nice range of colours and finishes, and once these dry, they stay put. In their hefty glass jars, they feel just as expensive as some of the cream shadows offered by high end brands.


Eyeshadow Pencil/Cream Stick

The texture of eyeshadow pencils and cream sticks the vary dramatically.  If a pencil is too dry, it can break easily, and tug at the lid more than you might hope.  However, a good pencil shadow is a quick and easy way to apply your eyeshadow.  You simply apply the colour where you want it, and then blend it out using your finger or a brush.  You can also use some creamier pencils as a base for your eyeshadows.  NYX Jumbo Pencils are particularly good for this.  Use a pencil the same shade as your eyeshadow to really make the colour vibrant, or use a different coloured or black pencil under neath a duo-chrome shadow to really bring out the different shades.

Recommendations

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NYX Jumbo Eye Pencil - These are creamy and pigmented, and come in a large range of colours.  And best of all, they're only £5.

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Clinique Chubby Stick Shadow Tint -  These long wearing shadows have a twist up mechanism so that there's none of the wastage of product that you get from sharpening.


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Urban Decay 24/7 Shadow Sticks - a chunkier version of their famous eyeliners, these creamy pencils dry down and stay put all day.

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